No. 147 Black is black I want my loco back (Heljan Night Owl)

I am really very pleased with my black Heljan 47xx. I think it is becoming one of the best ever locomotives to grace my layout. It has been a long journey which will not suit everybody. However ‘job done’ and I am well pleased.



Heljan 4706 BR Black 'Night Owl



When Heljan announced their 47xx I preordered a BR green model. I read with interest the associated thread on RMweb and noted the trials and tribulations with 4706 the ‘black’ model. I dithered. I cancelled my preorder. Then I reordered and took delivery – ‘Shades of Green’.






I was well pleased with my green model; it ran like a sewing machine and arrived mostly in one piece. (It was only after I had written my last Blog Post and I was reviewing the pictures that I noticed that one of the lamp irons had ‘fallen over’ - now sorted.) I was so impressed with my green engine that whilst new models were still available I would purchase 4706, the BR black engine. Sadly all the stories I had read, about models arriving damaged and bits hidden in the cardboard packaging proved to have been true. Hattons must be very patient. I returned two models (plus an empty box). I could have returned the third model. However given the state of the first two rejects I realised that this third model was unmarked and whilst they were not all actually attached, all the bits were present and correct. The model was worth fettling.


Engine No.3



Having handled three black engines and one green engine I have gained the impression that there are two issues with the Heljan models. There is evidence that the consignment of black engines was subject to great trauma – dropped from a great height? The 47xx is a weighty model and a lot of the detail seems to have been added using super glue with minimal mechanical keying. Bits have shaken free, I would say before arrival at the retailer. Probably due to location within the consignment, some models appear to have been driven down into the vacuum plastic packaging with such force that the cab steps have been deformed or broken off. Butanone is wonderful stuff.

 
Glued joint



The second issue relates to the footplate in front of the smokebox. I received two models where the front section was loose (but still attached), and one model which was complete in one piece but where the buffers pointed skywards (it also refused to run but I chose not to investigate that aspect any further). On the third model, the one that I chose to keep, the front section of footplate was loose and one of the stays beneath the smoke box had popped out. However much pressure I exerted I couldn’t get the footplate to lie level. Was it excess dried glue, or is the shape of the Mazak chassis wrong?



‘robmcg’ in a Post on RMweb has some better pictures of the problem and solution where his model arrived with the footplate sheared off.






Because my footplate was still intact I set about dismantling the engine. This proved more difficult than I had imagined but I did eventually gain better access to the underside of the footplate and the top of the chassis, sufficient to be able use a small blade and to pare some material away.

 
Exploded diagram



The cab on the engine is a completely separate item and has to be released first by removing two screws on the underside of the chassis. The boiler with its weight enclosing the motor can then be released by undoing two further bigger screws. [b]Beware[/b] - the weight inside the boiler is amazingly heavy and slides in and out like anything (as per Winnie the Pooh). I had thought that the footplate could then be lifted clear of the chassis. Sadly not, the footplate is attached to the pipework beneath the cab which in turn is glued to the bottom plate that retains the driving wheels. Too much flexing of the pipework and it starts to lose its coating of brass paint. On my green engine the footplate in front of the smoke box is glued down to the chassis. Seemingly this joint had failed on my black engine. I did try reassembling without glue but reluctantly the only way I could make a permanent fix was to reattach using super glue. Replacing the two metal stays beneath the smokebox was a bit like one of those Chinese Christmas puzzles. At the finish I lightly glued the stays into the smokebox before refitting the boiler and finally pressing the other end of the stays into the footplate. I tend to agree with ‘Coachman’ on RMweb who thought the Heljan stays are too short. He remade some to be longer and hence better able to press the footplate level.






My black engine is not perfect, but then on close inspection neither is my green engine.


Heljan 4706 BR Black 'Night Owl' (right) 4705 BR Green (left)



Now what about the other issue, the elephant in the room?


Cab side number plates



There is the small matter regarding the size of the cab side number plates, not forgetting the red dot. Heljan’s small moulded plates had to go, and I purchased some etched plates from 247 developments. I bought plates with a black background and recoloured them using some Humbrol ‘signal red’ paint from long past.



With the cab removed from the engine I set about grinding off the moulded number. The task is helped by the Heljan number being smaller than the finished engraved plates.


Black Cab?



Working on the ‘kitchen table’ I held the cab with a heavy G clamp and used a Proxxon drill fitted with a diamond coated grinding bit. The Proxxon is a relatively new purchase and it is worth noting that it runs beautiful and true – unlike the rather cheaper variant that I previously used.

 
Tools of the trade



Black on black is difficult to see and I cannot over emphasise the importance of some good natural light. Also the need to clamp the work leaving two hands free to steady the drill. I have to own up wrecking my first cab when I used a craft knife to speed up the grinding process. Luckily Heljan have had a few models returned and would sell me a replacement cab.



Job done



To avoid lots of repainting I attached my etched plates over the area of the original Heljan plates. Is this correct or should the new plates have been positioned centrally?

 
Courtesy of Mr Roche



Thank you John Tomlinson, on Flickr, for checking some David and Charles illustrations. These are reported to show the middle of the cabside number plate directly below the most forward part of the curve of the cab cutout, as mine have turned out.

 
A good outcome



The red dot lives on for another day. Black engines and crimson and cream coaches are a very distant memory but I am well pleased with the combination below.

Heljan 4706 BR Black 'Night Owl'



There is a video on YouTube prior to fitting the plates and blackening the wheel centres which confirms the excellent mechanical performance of the Heljan Model.







- Now what about Black is Black:



Post Script

That broken piece of plastic - well it comes from beneath the rear cab foot steps:

Comments

Unknown said…
Hi. I've just bought a 47xx second hand. Whilst in transit, the same part has detached as shown in your image 'Engine No.3'. Can you tell me where to reattach it please? Thanks
longsheds said…
Hello, I have just read your comment this evening and will need to go and remind myself. I will reply further tomorrow. Regards Ray
longsheds said…
You really need an undamaged model to compare with. THe part that you allude to is part of the injector pipework and is fitted beneath the rear cab steps. I will add some pictures in a Post Scipt to the Blog. Regards Ray

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